Land Between the Lakes - South Half of N/S Trail

Beautiful Trail

          This is a continuation of the backpacking trip started on March 29,2012. The first blog-"Land Between the Lakes-North half of N/S Trail" was posted April 17,2012. The second blog-"Between the Land Between the Lakes Hike N/S Trail" was posted April 20, 2012.

           In stead of a dew covered tent, seeing the  weak morning sunlight,and listening to the music of birds, we awake to a cold dark room hearing the air conditioner and car doors slamming. Day four begins at the Super 8! Not quite the same! [ At least Pete smells better and he takes another shower ] We load our gear, put it in the truck,and head over to the Cracker Barrel for breakfast. After filling our hungry tummies,the decision is made to buy water and place the gallon jugs at strategic points along the trail. We stop at a small grocery store and buy four more gallons of water to go with the four that Pete has brought with him. I'm driving so Pete navigates us to the different trail junctions which will be the drop off points for water. We go to the Golden Pond Visitors Center and head south to the start of this section of our hike. The Trace is the main road dividing the LBL Nat.Rec.Area, it is crossed by smaller dirt and gravel  roads which head east and west and intersect the N/S Trail. Without to much trouble we are able to leave one or two gallons hidden at each crossing. The last drop off is the first water pick up point on our way north hiking back to the Visitors Center. The map shows an eight mile hike; we ponder, kick leaves, scratch heads. What if we leave our backpacks here hidden in the woods and hike this first eight miles with just the water we can carry on our belts? More pondering, kick more leaves, re scratch heads, scratch other places! OK, but if we leave packs here we have to hike eight miles! NO if, ans, or buts [ well-two tired butts ]  Let's do it !!  We hide the heavy backpacks in the woods and drive to the South Welcome Center.

          It's 11:30am, a clear beautiful day, time to get moving! I'm just a little anxious hiking without any  survival gear and limited water. The first half to three quarters of a mile is a slow steady climb up hill, not a good way to begin this late start. When the trail levels off we stop and take a short break, just a gorgeous morning, am glad to be hiking and in the woods again. No weight on our backs! We make good time and discover that the trail is following a ridge top, very small elevation change. This is a good thing! Two miles of hiking we come to a trail sign that tells us the trail starts here! We've hiked two miles that haven't counted as part of the eight miles to the first road crossing. Now there you go! We have only eight miles to go to water. Only one thing to do-keep hiking! A good nights sleep, no backpack, a filling supper and breakfast, and the joy of being out doors, we make good time!

         

Broom straw

Nice Trail

          
          We do the eight plus two miles at a fast clip and find the water and backpacks right where we left them. Did that ten miles with no problem, put the backpacks on and hiked even further down the trail. Stopped at 6:30pm and made camp in a nice meadow. This south part of the trail doesn't go near the lake, so we'll camp right here and enjoy another moon filled sleep.

Fourth night

          We are up and moving early this morning, 7:30am loaded and saying goodbye to this meadow. Day five.  Hot! Pete is already beginning to smell bad, unless that's me I smell! We have plenty of water, it was a good thing Pete did- making sure we put water on the trail. Up and down we go as this day progresses, still making good time and not a bad hike.

Yours Truly

Why is he always sitting?

         
            This part of the trail is also used by horse riders and has in many sections a very rough trail bed. The horse hooves leave small craters in the soft earth then the ground will hardened and we hikers trip and stumble our way along. During an early afternoon break, our packs off, leaning against a tree, drinking water, and just relaxing, there He was!!       

Barukh

          Ron, the horseman, said this was the 2008 National Reserve Champion for the 100 mile AHA National Championship.  He has his belt buckle to prove it!

Pretty cool!

          After Ron rode on we hiked until 5:00pm and called it a day. The end of the hike is near and there is no need to push on. Pete and I are both hot and tired from this days hike. We have covered a lot of miles these last two days. Here is another pretty meadow, we set up camp, fix the freeze dried meal, and relax during the setting of the sun. The moon keeps getting fuller and shines his brilliant light on us as we sleep.

Campsite number five.

Moon tracking across the sky!

          Day six fines us breaking camp at six in the morning. We are close to accomplishing our goal. We eat a quick breakfast and leave this solitude for a reality check with the real world. Between 7:30am and 9:15am when we arrive at the Golden Pond Visitor Center we meet one critter with a bad attitude. He flicks that forked tongue seeing if we register on his- I know what this is chart!  I don't think we do, he is confused! Stepping around him we go our way and he says, "You better run! I can be bad!"

Look at that eye!   Black snake

          Those  two or three miles we hike on this last day are a piece of cake! Pete's truck is waiting in the parking lot, we need a picture before we remove our packs and place them in the bed. A nice older couple walk toward the Visitor Center and stop to take our picture. He and Pete have a mutual friend through church, so we are friends by association. Pete and I do the fist bump and the hike is over!

Two fat men!-- Sixty mile hike!!

          We drove through the Elk and Bison Prairie as we were leaving the LBL and I was able to see the bison and some turkeys, plus more elk.  We were so close to the bison that I reached out and touched one of them on her backside.She looked over her shoulder and winked at me!

Turkey

Elk

Bison

Bison

Winkin' Bison

          Well there you have it- Good hike, good backpacking trip, good friend!

In the woods or on the water,

          Turtle

Between the Land Between the Lakes Hike N/S Trail

ELK

          This is a continuation of  the backpacking trip started on March 29,2012.  The previous blog-"Land between the Lakes-North half of N/S Trail " was posted April 17,2012.

          After we leave the North Welcome Station  we take a quick run up to the small town of Grand Rivers. Stop at the store and get bananas for Pete's crampie  legs.  [ I just made that word a word! ] Picked up some badly needed junk food and moved on to a gas station for a fill up. It is a beautiful afternoon.


          We, Pete and I drive to the  Golden Pond Visitor Center to his truck. There we resupply for the South end of the N/S Trail. Now--  I list the excuses Pete used to justify our break in this week long hike.     
Pete's legs were sore!    Pete needed a bath!    Pete had leg cramps!    Pete really smelled bad!     Pete was tired!    Pete stank!    Pete was galled!    Pete=BAD odor!   Pete had open blisters!   Pete is not GRACIE!!  [  love you Pete ]

          So, we took the new supplies and headed to Cadiz,KY for a shower and air conditioned room with two soft beds. But, and this is an important but, the Elk and Bison Prairie is just a skip up the road. We have got to drive through the prairie so we can see the beautiful animals. Making the loop around the natural habitat all we see are these elk resting in the shade. I do the big "no no" and get out of the truck and walk toward them to get a better picture. Pete was hoping they would come after me so he could laugh as I ran stiff legged back to the truck. The elk looked at me and sighed "Oh look, another person with a camera!"   

Same ELK different picture!

          We will drive through again before I return to SC. hopefully I'll see the Bison next time. On to the motel where we clean up and smell nice once again. Eat a good meal at the Cracker Barrel. Rest and sleep well anticipating tomorrows start.

End of Day Three

          In the woods or on the water,

          Turtle

Land between the Lakes-North Half of N/S Trail

The beginning and the end of our hike !!

                The little red truck was waiting for our arrival, not at a boat ramp, but at the North end of the N/S Trail. The North / South Trail traversing from one end of the Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area to the other is approximately 60 miles long. Every piece of information we looked at seemed to give a different length, my feet say 60 miles, so 60 miles it is! I invite you to backpack it and decide for yourself, you will be glad that you did. Kentucky Lake is on the western side and Lake Barkley is on the eastern side of this land purchased  by the TVA [Tennessee Valley Authority] way back in the early sixties. We meant a sixty-five year old women whose family had to sell the family homestead to the TVA in 1962, she camps in the area every year near the land her parents farmed. Cemetery's are scattered throughout the LBL left over from the settlements that were moved out, relatives and friends care for these graves and the memories they represent. Family, history, and tradition are important to pass on to the next generation.

          My old friend Pete, we'll call him Pete, because that's his name! we'll call him old, because he's a month older than I am, and we'll call him friend, because only friends do hard things together. --My goodness! we've known each other for 40 years!! Now we are old fat friends!!  One of us being mucho fatter than the other!  We meet in the motel room and dump the gear from our backpacks and laundry baskets, and shopping bags onto the beds. Divide and conquer!! We decide who gets what and load up for this wondrous adventure in the wilds of Kentucky. After a good nights sleep and a simple Continental breakfast, the day One begins.

PETE

          The drive from Cadiz, KY to the North Welcome Station  was uneventful, I just followed Pete, parked my truck, and loaded my gear in his Nissan for the drive to the Golden Pond Visitor Center. Both of us were ready to start the trip, but not in a big hurry to get started. I wandered around the visitors center, used the indoor plumbing, filled my water bottles and now am ready to go. I don't know what Pete is doing, at this point he reminds me of an old lady who doesn't know where she put her glasses.

          Ten o'clock AM, March 29,2012.  A nice sun shining, Two strong men, one with bilateral knee replacement less than two years old, the other says he is an 100 pounds over weight.  We Begin!!!!
Our back packs weight between 50 and 65 pounds, our shoes are well worn hiking shoes, our trekking poles have miles of trail experience  under their carbon tipped points, and our spirits are high! We sling the backpacks on and tighten them down, stand straight and make comfort adjustments, trekking poles ready like batons in the July fourth parade--March on!  As we start across the parking lot to the trail the driver in the school bus yells to us, "I'll pick you up at the first road crossing."  [ What do we look like through his eyes? A couple of not goin' to make it wanna be hikers!   We sure fooled him! ]  We chat a couple of minutes and laugh with him, then off we go. Cross the Trace-name of road running thru the middle of LBL - and instantly are confused as to where the trail is and where we are to go. Lost and haven't even started!! BUMMER, good thing we have 10 days set aside, we may need all of them--Plus some!! Walking up the road we go under an overpass and find a trail sign to the left. Made it, enter the woods and head north. Little red truck here we come!

N/S Trail-heading north!

            I love to hike. The forest is a place of comfort and solitude, it takes a weary soul, a tired body, and eases the life's tensions away. The mind wanders around the openness of the out doors and is refreshed. I-- in this state of tranquility, hiking up a gentle grade, am alarmed to hear a wild boar, maybe a razor back hog, who knows what? running up behind me! Glancing back over my shoulder all I see is Pete. Pete's red shirt is wet with salt stains, his legs are pumping like short pistons and the trekking poles tap like white canes in the hands of a novice blind man. He's panting and gasping for his last breath! If I'd a had a pistol I'd a shot him and put him out of his misery! "What have I got myself into? He's goin' to drop dead before we finish! Are you alright? Do we need to stop and take a break?" Pete's fine, for the next six days I hear this breathing as we hike. [ Let me say, Pete never complained and never quit. I admire him for hiking every step, he knew I couldn't carry him, and he knew I would leave him for those coyotes we heard singing. Just kidding!!  Some one would get him. Enough about Pete, he's one tuff marshmallow man! ]

          The trail guide rates the N/S Trail as moderate to strenuous with an elevation change of 200 feet. If this was a cooking show with a recipe for the N/S Trail, we would have a cup of easy with two cups moderate, one half cup strenuous and several pinches of hard hiking placed  as needed! The 200 feet elevation change is not a one time change but several times and makes for good sleeping under clear skies and bright moons.  I was amazed at the dry creek beds filled with stones, they reminded me of old road beds. Pretty green meadows were scattered along side the trail. Kept hoping to see deer feeding, but they stayed under cover during the heat of the day.

Stone filled creek bed.

One of several meadows.

          

Narrow is the path.

           We safely and gladly made it to Higgins Bay by 6:00 PM, camped next to the bay there on Kentucky Lake. We were able to get water out of the lake by using a water filtration system, cooked freeze dried food and set up tents. No sign of rain so we did not put the rain flies on and slept under the bright waxing moon.

Kentucky Lake

First campsite.

Higgins Bay Sunset.

         Day Two begins at 6:50 AM. Eat a breakfast of pre -prepared food, break camp, and on the trail by 8:30. I feel the difference today, sore muscles, tired feet, a desire to put miles behind us as we hike along."Pete, are you having fun?" Pete's reply, "Am I supposed to be?" "Yes"  Pete's reply, "I'm having fun!"  This is the end of March in KY, it's not supposed to be hot---BUT it is!  I remember that I have Gatorade packets with me, we mix this with the water we get out of the lake and flowing creeks we hike over.

Creek!

Slow uphill trail.

           This is a long hot day, lots of hard panting and short breaks! Pete asks,"Why are we doing this?" My cheery response, "FUN" and we hike onward!!! We push ourselves arriving at Pisgah Bay about 6:15PM. Between 12 and 13 miles! Two hot and tired men, a strong order permeates off their bodies and they declare--We stink!! The water is very shallow and rocky, no easy way to bathe so they don't!

Pisgah Bay

Second night.

           We thought it might rain tonight so we both put the rain flies on. It didn't! The small green tent is mine, the big blue tent belongs to Pete.The shore was very rocky and stoney with both softball size and marble size stones. No place to sit and cook or enjoy eating our freeze dried supper, we just uncomfortably sat on the ground, the joys of camping and backpacking. Another clear night, I kept the rainfly door open at my head and once again was able to watch the moon track across the sky. When the moon's light no longer lit the sky a million and one stars winked and sparkled and flirted until the sun's rays faded them away. That's why we do it-to see natures beauty!

Packs packed, ready for Day Three!

Trail about 50 yards from lake shore, following lake.

           Day Three starts with us crawling out of the tents about 6:45AM. I am refreshed and feeling good, we will reach the North Welcome Station this afternoon. Another hot day, so water is a concern. We are still drawing it from the lake and topping off our water bottles as we cross creeks. We still stink and we're still having FUN! The more I hike, it seems the better I feel and the easier it is to do. I keep leaving Pete behind. As long as I hear him, I know he hasn't dropped dead or passed out, so I keep hiking!  We have hiked this North section in the right direction, from south to north because this third day the trail  not only touches Kentucky Lake it also climbs up and over looks it. The scenery is made to stop and look at. I feel like this is also the most rugged part, but anticipating the end makes it not so challenging.

Rocky shore of Kentucky Lake.

Pete enjoying a needed break!

Overlooking Kentucky Lake from a high spot!

Kentucky Lake

          As we near the end of this first section of the hike, people begin to appear- literally out of the woodwork!  Mountain bike riders and campers and other hikers. We stop and chat with two men doing a day hike and speak "Hi, how you doin' in." to two thru hikers as we pass on the trail. It's a guy and a gal, they look like its there first time in the woods, oh well!" live and learn, or try and die!" We continue our trek and meeting the older lady whose family owned land here in the sixties we stop and spend several minutes talking with her. What a sweet lady!  The need to finish this portion is overwhelming so we move on toward the little red truck. I see a building, I see a parking lot, I see the truck! Part one has ended!!  In a few minutes Pete shows up, the heavy backpacks are put in the bed along with the trekking poles and I drive to the nearest vending machine for an ice cold Mellow Yellow. We now go to Pete's truck to replenish supplies and prepare for the South end of the N/S Trail         

Looks like a moose head!

          In the woods or on the water,

          Turtle

          More to come!







        

















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Gracie's Story

GRACIE

It has been difficult for me these last few weeks, I have wanted to tell my story, but Turtle would not let me. I was not feeling well- this is embarrassing- OK I'll tell the truth!   I had a bad case of worms!!   You talk about itching, my bottom was itching something fierce! I licked until I got a crick in by back, I did the boot scoot and bogy on every rough board and piece of carpet I could find.When I sat in the computer chair with wheels, it would roll crazy like around the room as I wiggled and twisted trying to satisfy the ever present itch for those nasty worms. My toe nails slid off of the key board when I tried to type because my bottom would not be still. Reading glasses kept slipping off the end of my nose. Push glasses up, lick butt,fall out of chair, try to get back in chair, chair roll!! OH, my goodness, I'm just a dog, can't someone do something! Turtle bought a pill at the feed store, but it didn't help! I still had those ugly worms squirming  and annoying fleas biting, no way I could sit still and type. Finally went to the Vet and she showed me a little love. Took an effective worm pill and a pill that would kill fleas. I've been better for quite some time now and told the Turtle Man it was time that I talked about the Biker Beaver Gang one more time. Here's my story and I'm sticking to it!

 I'm under the bed sleeping, not a care in the world, dreaming of napping all day.  The Turtle man gets out of the bed, does the bathroom stuff, then puts his outdoors play clothes on. It is still dark outside and I am very happy right here under the bed. I hear him say, "Come on Gracie, we have got to go!" Do I look like I'm not happy? Do I look like I want to go? No! All stretched out really comfy and secure under the bed. He grabs my leg,jerks it, I jerk back [ thinking to myself "JERK"] So I crawl out, shake the sleep from my eyes, yawn, stretch out my legs, wag my tail and pretend to be glad to be awake before dawn, pretend to be glad to see the Turtle man, let him pat me on the head, and think "Whatever" Then he says,"We're going to the lake"  Now why did he not say that in the first place? I love to go to the lake! We go out to the truck and I see that he has already put the canoe on and tightened it down, the paddles are in the truck bed along with the cooler which has food in it and cold drinks for him [ water,Gatorade, and pop for lunch]  He always takes two paddles- like one day I'm going to help him paddle-Fat chance! Life vest, hat, and paddle pad for his fat butt are in the extended cab behind the seat. There is a dry bag with the smaller gear that we don't want to get wet. The camera, not real sure what the camera is, but we always need the camera! " Where is the camera? Man! the battery is dead! Don't get it wet! The canoe is moving, I can't get a good picture!" All these loud heart wrenching cries over the camera. I say ditch the camera!  Slowly I make my way into the truck and settle down on my own dog hair covered seat. The Turtle man will tell you in a heart beat if you don't like the dog hair--Don't ride in the truck! That's Gracie's seat!

 Turtle does the last minute check and off we go, still dark outside. We stop at a little convenience store to get a bag of ice and whatnot, I'm laying in the truck peeking over the window sill watching all that's going on when I see the store clerk ringing up the bag of ice. Now that's nice, she has long blue finger nails [ NFL Cowboy Football Team blue with a white star painted on the end of each nail.] I'm saying these babies are an inch long with a curl that will make any mean cat proud, slice the ear off a mouse and cage a bird with one paw. Mean looking nails, how does she hit the keys on the cash register? Turtle man sits back in the truck and says "Would not want to get in a cat fight with that woman!""You should have seen her finger nails!"

Off we go-still dark-I go back to sleep!  The Turtle man has never had a wreck while I've been with him, but he has had a wreck or two. He tells of the time he has ran into the back of a lady while she is waiting to make a left hand turn, not a happy lady! The Turtle man was driving home after a long night at work, dozed off and woke up just before he smacked into the back of her fancy car. THUMP!  No one hurt, the car not hurt too bad,but the old truck- pushed the left front quarter panel back into the tire, jammed the door so as not able to open it. Oh well, ended up using a sawzall to cut metal away from the tire so he could drive it and drove for many more months.  I feel safe, therefore I sleep.

Air is blowing into the truck, the radio goes quiet, we have turned onto the road headed directly to the lake, always roll down the window and turn off the radio on the final stretch to the lake.At Lake Keowee, the sun is just starting to clear the top of the mountains,we back down to the water, and get out of the truck. What a beautiful morning it is! The Turtle man stretches and breaths deep as we stand beside the truck viewing the placid water reflecting  the early morning sun. I go check out the scents and catch up with what's been happening since our last visit to this lake. Turtle unloads the truck while I do dog stuff, and I do it very well -thank you.

I hear the door shut and the truck start, I jump thinking I'm getting left behind, when I see Turtle slowly drive up the ramp to the parking area. He backs into place, one small lonely truck sitting at rest waiting for all the big trucks and boat trailers to join him as the day moves on. The little red truck never complains, just watches, there are a lot of strange things going on at boat ramps. If the little red truck could talk he would tell of all the people who watch us paddle to the boat ramp after a day of canoeing and ask the question, "Have you been canoeing?" Turtle man and I still don't know how to answer, he just says, "Yes". And then there's the lady who wanted to borrow a knife so she could cut the bottom off of a two liter bottle and make a dish to put water in to give to her dog who was running free next to the really big lake full of water. Why did the dog need a water dish? Turtle man got his knife and cut her a water dish for her dog, easy thing to do! Several people use boat ramps as beaches and set up chairs and towels and coolers and beach toys. Children laugh and play and scatter when boats come and go, they don't move for canoes, they ask if we've been canoeing?  "Yes"

It is time! The canoe is pushed into the water, just the bow resting on shore, "Lets go Gracie" I leap in the bow and settle in my spot, as he pushes the canoe from the ramp. Turtle man sits in the back seat, picks up his bent shaft paddle and we are off! Morning chill is in the air, early sunshine lighting the way., fresh strong arms moving us along, let this day begin! We are all alone, the lake is ours. Quiet still water, touched by woods reflecting the strength and stability of years of growth, trees tall and stately guarding the secrets of this forest. This forest, home to wildlife and birds living in the natural cycle of life. We are outside looking in, we will see things no man has seen before! We paddle to the middle of the lake and feel a change in the air, Turtle says " It's a new day, it's a good day."  The hair stands up from the top of my head to the base of my tail. I have bad vibes, it's going to be a day I'll never forget! Looking off to the east I see new sunshine, slowing turning a complete 360 I still see a glorious day, but I'm not feeling it! I settle in the canoe and ride, I've seen it all before. I am unsettled!

A deer is watching from shore and three more peek from the bushes as we glide by, one of those big herons looks down his long beak at us before slowly flying away, fish are moving near the top of the water and one splashes on the right. We are quiet, we are moving, a perfect day! Shore line is salted with mussel shells from the night raid of raccoons. A breathtaking morning full of wonderful things to see. I'm sitting with my chin resting on the gunnel soaking in the sunshine and dozing off from time to time. Dare not go to sleep, I have this feeling! Turtle man catches his breath, lays the paddle across the gunnel, and says, "I don't believe it, Gracie it's a beaver!" I jump so quick I slip and fall to the bottom of the canoe, land on my side and have to struggle to regain my footing. Glance to the left, no beaver-right, no beaver, a loud splash in my face at the bow! found it, see it fade into the water and my heart stops beating!!  BEAVER! Why? Why this perfect day? so upset my legs tremble and my thighs quiver, And he says, "What beautiful animals!" Turtle man picks up the camera and waits.

This is hard, I have to take a break!  I'll finish the story later, remember-"this is my story and I'm sticking to it!" When the Turtle man gets home I'll tell him I'm sorry, this is just too emotional to relay in one sitting. I'm already upset that he left me home with Rocki, he owes me several trips this summer to make up for this snub! He doesn't think I can handle a long backpacking trip and he is probably right, I am 12 years old and tire easily. The spirit is willing, but oh my! the flesh is weak. Be surprised if he doesn't quit before the end of the trail, he is no spring chicken either.  Well, I will tell the rest of the story later- me and the beavers; the beavers and I! 

Gracie