Ellicott Rock Wilderness -- Fork Mountain Trail

 

Respect all Wilderness Areas

Trail is in both states.

          It is the right thing to do! Four days of rain, a good steady rain that we fervently needed permeated the trails and elevated the water levels in all the creeks and streams. The Chattooga River stampeded down her river bed in an angry boil of white water and ever changing currents, smashing into rocks and diving over  submerged tree trunks and decaying stumps. I stood in amazement watching  the display of power! The hike down the mountain was commonplace, a walk in the woods. The  challenge of stooping under, going over,or edging  around the tangle of downfall  branches blocking the trail occurred four different times. I was able to keep moving and made good time. Only one stream was wide and deep enough to cause me to stop and stare and watch as two other  hikers decided how best to cross the stream. They tossed stones into the water and tried to build up the creek bed enough so they could walk across without getting water in their hiking shoes. They both were Boy Scout leaders, but they were not prepared! I, on the other hand was never in the Scouts, but I was prepared and had on my waterproof LL Bean hunting boots which walked me right over the water and onto the other side. There was nothing I could do to help so I continued on down the trail. Later, we crossed paths again and they told me that they took off their shoes and waded across the creek.

          The Fork Mtn. Trail ended when it merged with the Chattooga River Trail which followed the river and connected with the Foothills Trail in the Burrells Ford area. In other words get out your Foothills Trail map, start at Sloan Bridge Access, hike down the Fork Mtn Trail, turn left on the Chattooga Trail, turn left on the Foothills Trail and you will arrive back at your car which is patiently   waiting at the Sloan Bridge Access. A really simple-don't get lost hike if you know where you are going.  Now I'm going to get out of chronological order and tell the story of three novice backpackers I met about three miles from the end of my second day of hiking. I know that I'm looking pretty rough, have backpacked seventeen miles and camped out one night, my legs are tired and my body is tired. I'm not complaining just setting the stage for my encounter with The Three!

Me looking rough!

          I've hiked back up Fork Mtn. and am slowly traveling along the Foothills Trail when I see something coming toward me. I stop and lean on the trekking poles, puzzled at what I am seeing! Ah!! hikers, no not hikers, but backpackers! Three of them! When I first saw them they were in single file, but coming around a bend so I was seeing three heads, but one wide body and a big backpack! They stopped and looked me over, I smiled and said,

          Hi!

          Hi! three times

          How ya'll doin'?

          OK

          Wher're ya'll goin'?

          We don't know.

           Do you know where you are?

          No, we saw a guy a while ago and he didn't know where he was either. We're hunting for the Foothills Trail. Do you hike here often?

          Yes, I'm from down near TR.

          Where's that? --  Not my first clue these boys didn't know what they were doing, but that confirmed it.

          TR is not to far from here. Do ya'll have a map?

          No.

          Let me give you a map and show you where you are.  --  They look at each other and say

          Sure, that would be great!

          I take my backpack off and pull out the map of the Foothills Trail. I very carefully show them where they are and how to circle up and around ending back at their car. The reverse of my hike.  I tell them where the campsites are along the river and one of them says what they came to see was Ellicott Rock. I ask him if he knows what is important about Ellicott Rock and he does, it is where GA, NC, and SC meet.  The Rock is beside the trail and we easily can see the three state junction on the map.

         Each one has on an internal frame backpack and at least three other things strapped on the outside of their packs. One has a six man Coleman tent riding on the top of his pack. I didn't ask what else they had, they are young and strong. Some where in the course of our conversation I asked where they were from and they proudly answered, Columbia, we go to the Univ. of South Carolina! Being a Clemson fan, I immediately asked that they give me back my map!  [ Just kidding!] That did explain a lot, college kids need more than just book learnin'! They single file walked pass me on down the trail, to I'm sure a new adventure, I watched them pass and the third one had a football strapped on the back of his pack. I loudly and hilariously remarked, "A football!" They laughed and disappeared into the unknown. When I got to the trailhead and parking area I saw a Subaru with a Univ. of SC sticker on the back window and a Connecticut State license plate on the bumper. Not only USC students, but also Yankees!! Put your own adjective before Yankees.


          Now where was I before I got side tracked? Oh yes! I'm hiking down the Fork Mtn. trail and am enjoying the hike. I end up at the Chattooga River and take a break at the wide open camping area near the river.

Chattooga River

       




           


       

Camping Area

  























          A thirty minute snack break is enough and I continue on down the trail, the famous Ellicott Rock is close by, I take a picture of the sign and move along.

One Rock ahead!

          The trail is wet in spots and muddy and slick, a large number of roots and mossy stones to step on and around. My pace has slowed even more then normal, I'm careful not to slip and lean heavily on my trusty trekking poles. I come to a wide creek, about ten feet across and eighteen to twenty-four inches deep, I remove my Bean boots and boldly, no timidly cross wearing heavy smart wool socks which get heavier with each step. The water is cold for only a second, then my feet are numb and I feel nothing. Upon reaching the other side I sit and remove sodden socks replacing them with dry warm socks, thankful that I have brought four pair for such an occasion as this!

Sock Foot Crossing

          The remainder of the hike to Burrells Ford was uneventful, still careful sections of trail near river.

Bridge over the East Fork

Chattooga River in a hurry.

          The trail is nice, flat, and wide after crossing the East Fork plenty of good places to camp.

The water is pooling on the rock, a small stone is holding the leaf in place and the water is spouting out of the pool! I don't know if a human placed the leaf there or if it just happened? Either way--Awesome!!

         At campsite setting up for the night. A picture is worth a thousand words!

Tent

Rainfly

Deflated Pad

Aired up

Sleeping bag

Sleeping bag

Pillow

Pillow

Ready for bed!

          Cold night, but kept warm in bag and tent. Started out at 8:30AM next morning, first part of hike was all up hill with plenty of switchbacks. When I got to the top I stopped for a few minutes and had a snack break on top of the mountain. I could see through the naked winter trees down hill in all four directions. It is an inexpressible and therefore an unspeakable experience  for me to summarize my feelings when I stand on the top of a mountain, so I am silent! Quiet, I feel the quiet, no wind hiding and seeking around the trees. No birds singing, all bugs are hiding in their winter homes, just me and my thoughts. Why I had this thought I will never know - "It is as quiet as the three seconds after the preacher's boy farts in church!" Now that is quiet!

          Continuing on my way I stop and talk to The Three and then make my way to the parking area. All is well, so I put my trekking poles and backpack into the car and drive myself home. A good two day backpacking trip. If you live in the Upstate of SC do this trip, you will enjoy it!



          In the woods or on the water,

          Turtle

The Mall Trail

Main Trail

          I took this hike  and found it to be very informative, very different from many of the hikes that I have taken. A true outdoors man only needs to do this hike once a year, best to do it a day or two before Christmas! The sights and sounds are unique and bold, even scary. The wildlife all look the same, but are different! Many spur trails to wander down and they all return to the main trail. There is a detailed trail sign to keep you from getting lost just be careful where you go.

Detailed Trail Sign

           Off we go, I have my pedometer on so I can see how far I travel. My daypack was left at home and the trekking poles aren't needed. That means no water and no snacks! No reason to change into my hiking shoes so I leave on my faithful crocs. Gracie stayed home, I am on my own!

          It is another beautiful day here in SC, the sun is shining, the weather warm and I am taking my annual hike on the Mall Trail. I arrive at the Mall Trail parking area about 9:AM and find that it is only about  one third full. This is good, we hikers will be able to spread out along the trail and not be rubbing elbows or bumping into each other. [ Boy am I wrong! ]

          First thing I do is push through a door, now that is a strange way to start a hike. I enter a large cavern type area, reminds me of the Mammoth Cave in KY. Sunlight is shining in through the roof and adding to the bright lights enticing me to wander into all of these side trails, more like caves full of stuff with narrow paths carved between the goodies. I have been here before, but never really remember or try to relive the experience from one year to the next. Not a place I want to be, every year I'm drawn like a moth to a flame and I always get burnt before I am able to fly away!

          American Eagle Outfitters.  I am confused, it has been my privilege to see the majestic eagle flying in the woods and over the lakes, but how are they outfitted? I turn into this spur trail, if you will, and secretively begin to look for white feathers, yellow eyes and sharp beaks, talons and wicked looking toe nails. Black glistening feathers and a little attitude-- "You want some of this? Come get you some!" Nothing like that in this place, oh well. I move on and see a sign for Gap.

There are many words for pass in the English-speaking world. In the United States, pass is very common in the West, the word gap is common in the southern Appalachians, notch in parts of New England, and saddle in northern Idaho.    A mountain gap is a route through a mountain range or over a ridge. If following the lowest possible route, a gap is locally the highest point on that route. This is the Wikipedia definition of a mountain gap.

 So here's this sign with Gap written on it and near it is another with Gap Kids on it, I'm thinking an easier way to hike this trail, so I enter the Gap. Big mistake! backing out very slow I enter the Gap kids. Not and I repeat, Not an easier way through the mountains. How many different kinds of clothing can one hiker buy? Now I'm beginning to feel just a little stressed, nothing is as I was expecting it to be. Ah! and another Ah! Bath and Body Works, where does this spur trail lead? Well, it smells good! If I find a hot spring to sit in and relax then this is a good spur trail, but all I find are things to use when I sit in the hot spring. Oh, wait just a minute, Brookstone, fresh water and a bubbling brook, maybe a hot spring and a cool mountain stream drink. Nothing like that on this trail, just some funny rocks! Now I see a Trail Sign saying Switch, first thought is switchback, trail must be getting steep. Entering this trail it's more like Trap, I turn and quickly walk away. Up ahead is Finish Line. The end of the trail, so I think, not so! Just a dead end trail!

            I keep moving along and keep reading trail head signs -- Journeys, Guess [ I know that I'll never guess, don't even try ] The Children's Place, aerie by American Eagle [ didn't know eagles made aeries, what ever they are ] Buckle, Mori, Jarman, Banana  Republic. Well here are some trails that may be just what I'm a needin'! The first one - stride rite, when I was having therapy after my bilateral knee replacement, the lady had me step over can goods she took out of our cupboards. I had to pick my feet up and stride rite. Next is The Walking Company, what a good place for a hiker to walk. While walking I came to a" cache "of " bare minerals " along side of " Coldwater Creek " underneath the " Palmetto Moon " and at " Hickory Farms " I discovered " Victoria's Secret " I'll tell you right now that Victoria has no secrets and that both she and her Mama should be ashamed for her to go around lookin' like that! I got a crick in my neck trying not to get caught looking!

          All things must come to an end and I turned around and headed back up the trail, returning to my car. I walked pass many more trails that I didn't explore and didn't see the need for me to do so. I entered a feeding area called Foot Court and decided that I should join the feeding frenzy. All kinds of wildlife; different ages and shapes - big, little, and all between. Hair styles of short hair and long hair, some even had half their head long hair and the other half shaved short. there was black hair and gray hair, no hair and a weird red dyed hair. Brown, blonde and a combination of both, parted hair and messy hair. All different types of food and different ways to eat it. Noise!! The level of noise increased and decreased as the wildlife moved in and out of the feeding area. All the wildlife looked different, but basically acted the same, no eye contact was made, we just enjoyed our meal and moved on.

          Opening the door and leaving the trail I realized that my pockets were lighter and my arms full of stuff gathered along the way. They got me again! The trailhead parking was slam full and cars were circling around like vultures looking for road kill. I rushed to my car and locked myself inside and tried to make myself small as I checked my pedometer. Three cars were waiting for  my space! I'd hiked 4574 steps, just over two miles. I am worn out! Start the car and notice the brake lights go out on the three cars vultureing me, putting the car in Drive as I stomp the gas I make my escape and don't look back.  It's high noon, I'm gone until next year!



          Turtle